Dry Cleaning vs. Hand Washing: How to Hand Wash Silk, Cashmere & Wool

One key factor I consider when buying clothing is the fabric care label. If maintenance is too difficult or costly, I skip the purchase. However, many gorgeous items can be cleaned at home with proper care. Let's explore what needs dry cleaning and how to hand wash silk, cashmere, and wool.

Hand Washing vs. Dry Cleaning

Before delving into the techniques, it’s essential to understand the differences between dry cleaning and hand washing.

Dry Cleaning

Uses chemical solvents to clean fabrics, typically perchloroethylene (perc). The process is gentle on delicate fabrics, reducing the risk of damage like shrinkage or stretching.

Pros:

• Professional care

• Reduces the risk of damage

• Maintains fabric integrity

Cons:

• Expensive

• Uses chemicals

• May not be eco-friendly

Hand Washing

Involves using water and gentle detergents to clean delicate fabrics at home. It’s cost-effective and allows for more control over the cleaning process.

Pros:

• Cost-effective

• Eco-friendly

• Gentle on fabrics

Cons:

• Time-consuming

• Risk of damage if not done correctly

• Requires careful attention

What Can You Hand Wash?

Many designers place "dry clean only" labels on their garments to protect themselves from potential washing mistakes. The materials they use may wear faster or require special attention, hence the dry clean recommendation. Laundering in a machine can be harsh on fabrics, causing pilling or stretching. However, many "dry clean only" materials are completely washable at home with proper care.

When you see a delicate or "dry clean only" garment made with wool, silk, cotton, or cashmere, you can wash them at home as long as you perform a test first. Ensure there’s no color bleeding, shrinkage, or warping before proceeding. If you notice any adverse reactions, take the item to a dry cleaner.

Fabrics That Must Be Dry Cleaned

Certain fabrics should only be dry cleaned to maintain their integrity. These include:

• Viscose: A delicate fabric that can shrink or stretch when washed.

• Acetate: Prone to damage when exposed to water.

• Taffeta: Can lose its sheen and texture if washed.

• Leather and Suede: Require specialized cleaning to maintain texture and prevent damage.

Additionally, garments with structural elements like pleating, shoulder pads, or delicate appliques, sequins, and glued-on beading should be dry cleaned to avoid damage.

How to Hand Wash Wool and Cashmere

Wool and cashmere are luxurious, warm, and delicate fabrics. Hand washing is the best way to clean these materials without causing damage.

Pre-treating Stains and Odors

Start by pre-treating any stains and odors. Use a safe stain remover and apply it gently to the stained area. For odors, soak the garment in a solution of ¼ cup white vinegar and room temperature water for 30 minutes. Turn garments inside out to protect the fabric. Note: Skip the vinegar soak for silk.

Hand Washing

1. Fill a Basin: Fill a basin or sink with cool water and add 2 capfuls of pH-neutral detergent. Products like The Laundress are ideal because they are scientifically formulated to be gentle on delicate fabrics.

2. Submerge the Garment: Add the garment and gently work it through the water. Avoid rubbing or twisting the fabric. Gently squeeze different areas to ensure the entire garment is soaked.

3. Soak: Let the garment sit in the water for up to 30 minutes. It’s normal for the water to darken due to dye run-off.

4. Rinse: Drain the basin and press each garment against the side to remove excess water. Rinse with cool water until the water runs clear and suds-free.

Drying

1. Lay Flat: Place a clean towel on a flat surface and lay the garment on the towel. Roll the towel and garment together to remove excess water.

2. Air Dry: Lay the garment flat to dry. Avoid hanging as it can cause misshaping. Use a drying rack with mesh inserts for best results.

3. Freshen Up: To keep garments wrinkle-free and fresh between washes, use a garment steamer instead of an iron, which can flatten the yarn. Wool and cashmere sprays can also help to freshen up the fabric.

How to Remove Pilling

Pilling is common in wool and cashmere garments. Use a sweater comb or pumice stone to gently remove pills. Always work in one direction with short strokes to avoid damaging the fabric.

How to Hand Wash Silk

Silk is a delicate fabric that can be hand washed with proper care. However, it can shrink or be damaged by heat and is not as resilient as other materials.

Pre-treating Stains

Pre-treat stains with a safe stain remover. Avoid using vinegar as it can damage silk.

Hand Washing Silk

1. Test the Fabric: Dip a small corner or seam into cool water to test for any adverse reactions like shrinking or color bleeding. If there are no reactions, proceed with washing.

2. Fill a Basin: Fill a basin with cool water and add a gentle detergent.

3. Submerge the Garment: Gently work the garment through the water. Avoid rubbing or twisting.

4. Rinse: Rinse with cool water until the water runs clear.

Drying Silk

1. Lay Flat: Lay the garment flat on a towel, roll to remove excess water, and then lay flat to dry.

2. Remove Wrinkles: Use a garment steamer or iron on the lowest setting with a pressing cloth between the iron and the garment.

Conclusion

Maintaining delicate fabrics like silk, cashmere, and wool can seem daunting, but with the right techniques, it’s entirely manageable. Hand washing is a gentle, cost-effective, and eco-friendly way to keep these fabrics looking their best.

Always start by testing the fabric, pre-treating stains, and using cool water and gentle movements. Avoid hanging wet garments and opt for air drying to prevent misshaping. By following these steps, you can extend the life of your delicate garments and enjoy their beauty and comfort for years to come.

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